In Providence, Yoleni’s -the ‘Greek Eataly’- is right at home

The Yoleni’s in Providence is the brand’s second location, and the first in the United States. Not surprisingly, the “experience store” is often referred to as a “Greek Eataly.”

An Athenian temple of sorts has popped up in Providence. Head here to bask in Greek gastronomic blessings — the brine of plump, organic olives, the fruity minerality of Assyrtiko wine, and the creamy tang of the country’s signature yogurt.

Called Yoleni’s, the market-cafe-restaurant is the brand’s second location, and the first in the United States. Not surprisingly, the “experience store” is often referred to as a “Greek Eataly.” “Yoleni’s is not quite as large, but I think it’s a fair comparison,” says Alexandra Georgiou, who opened it with her husband, Alexander Philippides, in May. “We get that a lot.”

Located in the historic Tilden-Thurber jewelry company building in downtown Providence, it’s a scaled down version of the original flagship store, in Athens. Philippides’s nephew, Giannis Philippides, is the primary owner of the European location.

In Providence, the couple spent millions renovating the new market’s home, most recently an antique furniture showroom, to its current, culinary-themed glory. Visitors can watch cooks rolling out pita dough in an open kitchen; sip a morning frappé under impressively high, two-story ceilings; and grab dried bananas and apricots out of a gleaming glass case with a neon sign reading “Nuts and Dried Fruit Corner.”

With nearly a thousand different items, the market portion of the culinary complex skews gourmet. It includes things from every corner of the country, from raw “mountain blossom” honey from the Peloponnese to sun-dried tomato spread from Attica, and even organic amaranth and flaxseed cereal from Thessaloniki. Sampling is encouraged, and small tasting spoons are set out among the artfully arranged groceries.

Yoleni’s started in Greece in 2007 as an online-only shop, but most of its original investors are no longer involved. Georgiou and Philippides run the US arm of the online store and its distribution center out of the lower level of their Providence building, shipping goods all over the country. Call to inquire about an order, and you’ll probably end up speaking with Georgiou herself; the main phone line is currently routed to her personal smartphone.

Source: Boston Globe